Gulf of Nicoya, Golfito
- Capt. Eric
- Apr 7
- 5 min read
Considering the large swell along the Pacific coast, we decided to push further south, and take shelter in the Gulf of Nicoya.
The passage was easy, with a smooth overnight ride, in large lazy swells that would lift the boat up 20 feet before gently bringing us down on the other side. Its period so large that the movement was barely perceptible, more a visual effect than a physical one. The sounder though would register it, the sea bottom trace following the wave shapes, and confirming their 20 feet height.
Viewed from offshore, the beaches were showing huge crashing surf, whilst the waves were exploding in huge spray on the rocky outcrops. A good day to stay offshore.
As we rounded the last cape to enter the gulf, the swell gradually disappeared, and we could see at a distance a strong rainstorm forming, but luckily only got a small rain shower to rinse the boat off and no more.
An couple additional hours and we entered a tropical paradise of lush jungle extending all the way to the water, and I tucked Enfin behind a small outcrop to find the lee of the last remaining traces of swell.
Soon we were on the kayak and the beach, marveling at the natural beauty of the long beach, and the dense forest. Princess was loving all the new smells, and we felt like old time explorers landing in a virgin land.
We could hear all sorts of animals, from the now familiar howler monkeys to all sorts of birds and more, but for the most part they stayed hidden in the dense foliage.
We decided the cove would be our new home for a while. Although we were nearing the end of our Costa Rican adventures, it felt like for the first time we'd found the Costa Rica of the brochures, with the luxuriant vegetation and extraordinary bio diversity the country is known for.
We'd decided to exit the country from Golfito, and had a reservation at Banana Marina, the more reasonably priced option in town.
A small marina with rickety floating wooden docks, the place has a charm of its own, and its crew is very helpful and welcoming. We arrived on a Thursday but found the marina and most businesses around closed in observance of "Semana Santa", yet the crew on duty helped us to a slip. We had to back in as the other side had recently suffered damage in a freak and rare 70 knots storm, but soon we were connected ashore, with ample electrical power and potable fresh water.
After our time in Mexico where potable water in marinas was rare, and often either expensive or limited, having access to "unlimited" fresh potable water feels very luxurious. It allowed us to catch up on our laundry, and run many washing machines during our stay too.
We're back in the muggy heat we're familiar with from our time in Panama City, FL or Houston, TX. The kind of heat where you need a new T-Shirt only a few minutes after doing any kind of work outside.
Next door to Banana Marina was another small marina, Fish Hook marina, and their restaurant remained open during Semana Santa, much to our delight as we found it to be a very pleasant spot to end our days. We all appreciated the cool shade of the over the water deck, and the protection from the tropical rains under its large metal roof. To top things off, the food was excellent, unpretentious but well prepared local and international staples.
We made it our headquarters on a number of occasions, including after a strenuous climb about a third of the way up to the observation tower on top of the nearby hill and through the jungle. In the heat, the steep climb was a little too much for me. I've made huge progress since the days when even flat terrain would tire me, but I still haven't fully recovered my old strengths and abilities.
Oh well! I'm alive and enjoying life, something that wasn't all that guaranteed only a few years back. I certainly am not going to complain about being in Costa Rica!
Golfito was our kind of place. Not the flashy bling of Papagayo nor the touristy vibes of El Coco. It was originally a banana growing place, and one section of town -with the commercial port- is the old headquarters of the banana company.
The company left after pay disputes with their employees, and the town continued to grow, mostly towards the south now, and to benefit from the incredibly well sheltered "small gulf" (Golfito) .
We had a couple well appointed grocery shops within walking distance, and even a small ship chandler, where I bought 2 replacement gas tanks for our dinghy: we will need them when checking in to Panama in Boca Chica. Our last tanks were dead, cracked and sunburned by the UVs in the extreme heat of northern Baja peninsula in Mexico.
Most of the town is squeezed in between the steep hills on the east and the waters on the west, so for the most part there is only one road with houses and businesses on either side.
Pretty hard to get lost!
Walking around sunset was always the most pleasant, in the cooling air, when the various animals would make their presence known and the place became alive with bird calls, loud frogs, and all sorts of critters.
We'd booked a 10 day stay in the marina, longer than our typical stay when we're cruising along a coast, but felt we needed the extra time to catch up on a number of things and to arrange our entry into Panama.
In particular we needed to arrange Princess' International Health Certificate, which needs to be stamped by the local authorities on top of the local veterinary. A few days later, we had the document in hand and the Panamanian authorities and our agents confirmed they would be there on arrival on Tuesday, a day later than first anticipated.
So we added an extra day to our stay in Golfito -not exactly a burden!- before leaving at mid day the next day, aiming to arrive in time in Boca Chica, Panama to lower our dinghy and transfer to the tiny marina where the officials would wait for us.
On to a new country!
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