Chiapas
- Capt. Eric
- 3 days ago
- 5 min read
After waiting patiently for days our weather window started firming up. It'd be a short one, but the signs were clear: The Tehuantepec winds that normally rush between the mountains from the Gulf of Mexico to the Pacific Ocean would calm down for about 48 hours.
With an estimated passage of 250 miles, or about 40 hours at just over 6 knots, that didn't leave much leeway should the weather window close earlier than forecast.
Contrary to most longer passages we do, we left just after sunset, as I needed to time our arrival in the windiest part for sunrise, so we could see the coast and approach it very closely if needed.
That also allowed for an ETA in Chiapas around end of morning, for safer entrance into the channel and leaving plenty of time for authorities to board us.
I didn't plan leaving at the time that would give us the less wind, but sought the best combination of all the other imperatives. If our forecast was right we'd still have gusts in the low 20 knots, but by planning a route with "a foot on the beach" I hoped to ensure we'd have no waves.
Most other boats in our small group waiting around Huatualco decided to leave the next morning, and I decided against delaying our departure. Something in the back of my mind, a sort of gut feeling, was telling me to go as soon as the weather window would manifest itself. Di said to trust my gut.
In hindsight, it's easy to know when the weather window starts, as you can compare existing conditions to the forecast, but impossible to know if the window will last as long. That's what my gut (experience?) was telling me.
We got it right. The slowest boat behind us came real close to getting the weather slammed on them: The forecast for only 12 hours after our arrival showed winds gusting at 56 knots, something I have no doubt Enfin can survive, but no one on board would be comfortable.
The route I'd devised had us hug the coast all around the gulf, often being within the 50 feet depth line, real close to shore. Although being about 50 to 60 miles longer than a straight route, this minimizes waves and current, so in fact is much faster for most boats.
At sunrise next morning we were in the windiest section of the passage, with the nearby beach providing excellent lee, no waves and a maximum recorded wind of only 17 knots.
Basically perfect weather conditions.
A few hours later, with the sun now high up, the wind shifted and pretty much died. That was the end of the wind for the rest of the trip!
At the start of the second night, I had to reluctantly alter the route farther away from the beach, staying at around the 70 feet depth line, to give us more time to react in case we encountered uncharted sand bars.
I pushed the engine another 150 rpms to keep our midday ETA and compensate for the extra current further out.
The night went by easily, Di again taking over watch duties during the hardest part, and letting me catch up on good refreshing sleep.
We arrived in Chiapas at 12:30, well within our estimated range, and soon were at a nice slip inside beautiful little Chiapas marina. We'd asked for our usual 30 Amp and 50 Amp electrical connections, the former to run the "house" (everything on the boat except the AC), the latter dedicated to the 3 AC units. We'd also asked if possible for a starboard tie-in slip. It turned out we could only get one or the other, so we had to move the boat and turn it around to get the desired electrical connections. In the current tropical heat, we like our AC too much to voluntarily give it up!
Soon after docking authorities showed up. The Port Captain, immigration and customs officials as well as a drug sniffing dog team.
Everything was simple, courteous and easy, making Chiapas a real nice and convenient point to enter and exit Mexico.
The sniffing dog went over the boat in a few minutes, its handler not even asking me to open up the lazarette or the engine room. I suspect any trace of illicit product would raise a dog alert, and of course we have nothing to hide, but I thought it interesting they only checked the living quarters.
The Port Captain even very kindly let Di take Princess out for her first contact with shore in over 40 hours. Usually the rule is that only the boat's Captain can go ashore, and then again only to conduct boat business.
As soon as the authorities departed, we went to sign in the marina at the office. All the guides tell of how easy and friendly this marina is, but it is hard to make it justice.
We felt welcomed like old friends (we'd been corresponding for a few days already so they know who we were), and any question we had about how to organize the veterinary for Princess, how to go shopping, etc.. was met with "don't worry, it's easy and we can help you arrange it".
Not only does the marina give Ocean Posse members a nice discount, they also gave us the organization's flag.
Even better, in a demonstration of the power of modern logistics, the tender engine's injection pump I had ordered back in Barra de Navidad arrived an hour after us, and I was able to repair the Tohatsu the next day. Pump coming from China, ordered by satellite from sea, meets boat coming from Mexico with perfect timing.
Once the paperwork all done, we took Princess for a long and well deserved walk. She didn't complain even once about having to wait once docking, didn't howl like a frustrated husky when we kept her away from the authorities and in particular the drug sniffing dog.
This allowed us to discover the small but beautiful little marina. At one end a nice luxury restaurant with a palapa roof oversees the marina and the canal entrance, at the other a small but pristine pool with a palapa bar and resting area. An office, small shop and restroom complete the tour.
Then it was time for a treat for the whole crew to a restaurant dinner. The entrance to the restaurant has a big "no pets" sign, but we've seen these before and Mexico and know that enforcement varies greatly.
I sat Princess politely and calmly next to me, and the staff let us in no problem, after some minor "let's ask the boss" hesitation. Stay nice, polite and friendly and things have a way of sorting themselves out in Mexico.
The restaurant was very pleasant. Expensive by Mexican standards, but well worth it, as the many Mexican patrons confirmed. I always like seeing locals in the restaurants we chose, as it tends to tell me this isn't a tourist trap.
We enjoyed it so much, we decided we'd return the next day, and then again the following night for New Year's Eve!
We'll rest here for a good while before we deal with the Mexican exit paperwork, veterinary appointment for Princess, go shopping downtown and receive a few more Amazon packages.