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  • Capt. Eric

Brown Bay Resort

Sunset over Brown Bay Resort marina

Looking at the tide tables and current charts we decided to make our way down Johstone Strait in one go. The currents would be with us from about 09:00 to about 15:00, which I deemed was very civilized hours and in this period of full moon and large tides, would be rather strong too.

Dolphins playing in our bow wake

We were not disappointed: Enfin's usual 6 knots average speed was catapulted to over 10 knots by the current, so we made the passage in little time. We even had about 25 knots wind on the stern to add to this extreme speed! We laugh about Enfin's normal average speed. We certainly could go faster, after all our engine is rated for full continuous speed, but we don't see the point. Instead we enjoy our slow speed, quiet, noise and vibration free cruising.

Suddenly getting over 10 knots for the same engine output is fun though, even if to our fellow power boaters, and even many sailors, it remains very slow.

Our type of cruising is as much about the voyage as it is about the destination and we have plenty of time to enjoy the view,

Dolphins came up to us and played in our bow for a long time, to the excitement of the crew and funny howls of Princess. They played and played, surfing the only left to go and visit a nearby whale!

They stayed with us a long time before heading for a nearby whale

Brown Bear Resort is tucked in a deep bay just before Seymour Narrows and Ripple Rock, famous for its very strong currents (about 15 knots) and many wrecks. It is a perfect stop over either going South or North, to time your transit perfectly. Timing is the most important factor in transiting Seymour Narrows in smaller boats.

We had thought of the stop as just another marina, and quick stop before pushing on, but found a very pleasant, well kept and well ran place.

The resort consists of an RV campground built on the side of a wooded hill, with a number of glamping tent sites and cottages to rent as well. The marina is small but provides good transient docks, a fuel station, small shop and a floating restaurant.

Enfin at Brown Bay marina. Restaurant is the next dock over

The restaurant was not only very convenient access on the next dock over, they kindly accepted Princess on the terrace, so we made it a daily affair during our stay. This gave our stay much of a holiday feeling, and after the constant cruising a welcome one too.

Yes, full time retired people on a permanent cruise also get to go on holidays!

View of the marina from the RV campground

The resort is large and doesn't feel cramped. There are a number of paths to walk, with many sculpted and carved statues or benches along the way. There is an observation point for Ripple Rock to watch the boats and ships go by.

Ripple Rock claimed many boats and lives over the years, until in 1958 the Government decided to tunnel to it and to blow it up in what apparently remains the largest non-nuclear explosion to date.

One of the many sculptures

It felt good being on vacation. We planned our departure for Sunday morning, with the current tables showing we needed to reach Seymour Narrows around 12:38. Again a very convenient and civilized time, meaning we could sleep in late on a Sunday.

Vacation dessert

or so we thought.....

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