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  • Capt. Eric

Marina Costa Baja

Enfin tucked in its slip

We couldn't get a reservation for marina La Paz, and with Di's trip coming up soon, we didn't want to risk things. So we made a reservation at marina Costa Baja, a beautiful luxury marina and resort, much further away from the city center.

The marina office was very efficient and prompt, always a pleasure when corresponding with marinas, but like all marinas around here needed a lot of paperwork for just a week's stay.

I had to send 9 separate documents, which then got incorporated into a 37 page contract for mutual signature. Luckily we have Starlink and are all electronic so we can deal with this remotely. I wonder how non Starlink boats do?

We had been assigned slip G22, which the marina layout chart showed was a starboard tie-in, between the seawall and a floating finger dock.

Arriving at the marina, we passed the first basin full of larger yachts and a couple super yachts before making our way through a meandering narrow channel between 2 rocky seawalls leading us to the second basin.

Coasta Baja main basin with large yachts

Narrow channel to the second basin

Coasta Baja's second basin

Finding our spot, I had to aim straight for the seawall with its imposing rocks, before turning in the tight space. Nothing difficult, but it doesn't feel natural at all to be heading straight for a seawall!

Not a lot of room between the seawall and us, especially with wind pushing us

Having contacted them by VHF, the marina had sent a line handler to assist us and most importantly drive me down to the office so I could sign some more papers and get access keys.

The marina and surroundings is a rich gringos paradise. From upscale restaurants, to world renown golf (in the middle of a desert!), to pristine white beach and million dollar condos, to a five star hotel, everything is tailored towards the tastes of the richest amongst us.

We treated ourselves to a restaurant where I got to eat an excellent steak tartare, something I never thought I'd be brave enough to eat in Mexico, but with the clientele they have, they simply cannot afford to take any risks. Di had a fish specialty: our simple meal, as delicious as it was ended up costing US$120, which is a lot of money in Mexico. It's good to treat ourselves once in a while, but this isn't our world. Our next meals will be on the boat.

An excellent steak tartare at sunset. A nice treat

We shopped at the very conveniently located marina shop, just at the end of our dock, which was surprisingly well stocked. No prices apparent, and it's the kind of place where "if you have to ask, you can't afford it" which I'd never seen in a groceries! Still, we limited our purchases to a number of fairly basic items, from bread to butter and meat, tortillas, and a couple harder to find treats like Spanish charcuterie. We figured the time saved combined with the savings in taxis to the usual shops made up for the price difference. At least that's what we told ourselves! We did not grab one of the many champagne bottles or cigars on display.

That being said we enjoyed our stay very much. It won't be our premiere La Paz destination since we probably prefer the ease of walking downtown from marina La Paz, but it was fun to visit and stay in a very relaxing atmosphere.

The beach was well manicured, with a couple of mega yachts at anchor in front sending their tender in on a regular basis.

Beautiful manicured beach and pool club

Di left for Puerto Rico, and the next day I made out to a familiar anchorage, first stopping at the fuel dock to add a couple hundred gallons of diesel.

It is the first time since Ensenada that I add any diesel, 113 days ago, and a quick back of the envelope calculation shows that we did over 1,100 miles at sea, spending only 22 days in marinas, 3 on passage at sea and the rest at anchor.

Our average diesel consumption turned out to be 5 gallons a day. We'd bought our diesel at US$5 a gallon, so we spent US$25 a day on average since Ensenada on fuel. Considering this includes the long passage, and all the generator runs at anchor to produce our electricity and water, I think it's very reasonable and very hard to beat when you think of the comforts and safety factor we get to enjoy on Enfin.

MY Venus's big butt

MY VENUS, designed by Philippe Starck for Steve Jobs was at the fuel dock. I believe the yacht now belongs to Steve Jobs' widow. Enfin gets to mingle with the rich and famous!

The boat has been featured in many magazines all over the world for its revolutionary design, but honestly I found it ugly as a Soviet block of flats.

If you search for photos of it on the internet, you'll see it's sleek bow and most photos will show the boat from the bow, or the stern beach will be open. Having seen it from the stern I understand why.

It did confirm the luxury status of the marina though!

Time to move on. Di is in Puerto Rico and Princess and I will be waiting for her. We'll try and pick her up at marina La Paz on her return.

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